|
Estimates
email
us
Residential
Commercial
Storm Damage
Atlas
Certainteed
Genflex
Gutters
Owens-Corning
Tamko
GAF
Skylights
SunTek
Velux
| |
Frequently
Asked Questions
Here are just some of the questions we
receive from our
customers through out the year. Don't see yours? Use our response
form to ask specific questions about your roofing needs.
A "Glossary" of roofing terms and "Things you Should Know" follows this
section
Skylights
Q. Do skylights leak and what brand does Carlon Contracting recommend?
A. We only use two brands of skylight ... Sun-Tek and Velux. These skylights do not
leak as long as they are installed according to manufacturers specifications. We have
installed thousands of skylights and we feel these two brands are the best.
Q. What are my options if I decide to reroof.
A. You have two basic options. You can choose a complete replacement of the roof
system, involving a tear off of the old roof, or a re-cover over the existing roof,
involving only the installation of a new membrane and surfacing. If you've already had one
recover over your original roof, check with a professional roofing contractor to see if
your deck can support a second recover.
Q. My roof leaks. Do I need to have it totally replaced?
A. Not necessarily. Leaking can result because some flashings have become loose or
because a section of the roof has been damaged. A roof failure, however, is generally
irreversible and results from improper installation, choice of materials, or the
installation of a roof system inappropriate to the building.
Q. Can't I just do the
work myself?
A. Most work should not be do-it-yourself. Professional roofing contractors are
trained to safely and efficiently replace a roof. Novices can harm a roof with improper
roofing techniques and severely injure themselves by falling off or even through a roof in
need of replacement. Homeowner maintenance should be confined to roof inspections in both
the fall and spring to check for cracked or curling shingles, and to cleaning of rain
gutters filled with dead leaves and other debris. If you must see the roof for yourself,
use a firmly braced or tied-off ladder equipped with rubber safety feet. Wear rubber-soled
shoes and stay on the ladder (and off the roof) if possible.
Q. What will a new roof
cost?
A. The price of a new roof varies widely, depending on the material selected, the
contractor doing the work, the home itself, area of the country, local labor rates, time
of year and more. To get a good idea of the cost of your roof, get three or four estimates
from reputable contractors in your area. Keep in mind that cost is only one factor, and it
must be balanced against the quality of the materials and workmanship. For each roofing
material there are three different grades- and corresponding prices. Plus, there are a
variety of styles and shapes. You need to look at the full product range and make a choice
based on your budget and needs. Within the roofing profession there are different levels
of expertise and craftsmanship. Pick a contractor who is committed to quality work.
Q. How can I determine
my annual cost?
A. When mulling over your roofing options, the following formula may help:
Total Cost (materials and labor) / Life Expectancy of Roof (in years) = Annual Cost. |
|
Q. Isn't
price about the most important consideration when replacing a roof?
A. before
considering price only, try considering total cost. A roof that costs $1.00 per square
foot but only lasts 5 years is not as good a value as a roof that costs $3.00 per square
foot and lasts 20 years. cost thinking considers the price over the life span of the roof
and makes allowance for how trouble-free the installation and performance of the roof
will be. Some flat roofs need to be coated periodically or are
installed with noxious adhesives. Working with a professional contractor can help in
deciding what factors are important to getting the best value out of your roofing dollars
Rember.... Price is a one time expenditure....cost on the other hand is an ongoing
expense!
Q. What
sort of things make a difference in how a roof is installed?
A. A
roofing system needs to be properly "spec'd" out. What materials are best? Are
there any environmental considerations that need to be overcome? For instance, is the
restaurant¹s roof vent going to discharge grease onto the new roof? Is a tearoff
necessary? Is ther room for proper disposal? Is there moisture trapped in the old
system?
Next, roof materials must be
properly installed. Alignment and fastening are just two critical variables that must be
done right for the roof to work right. Care must be taken in the planning and
scheduling so nothing is damaged and everybody stays safe.
Flashing, drip edge, boots,
must be done right. These are the areas where some contractors will try to cut corners.
Most roof systems should hold up for over 20 years, but only if all the details are done
right.
Q. Why is
Insurance so important?
A. Workers'
Compensation and Business Liability insurance is very expensive for roofing contractors
because the risks associated with our trade are so great. If, however, a building owner
allows a contractor without insurance to work on his or her building, that building owner
assumes liability not only for damage to their own property but also for the health and
safety of any of the workers. Imagine how easy property can be damaged or somebody
get injured during a roof tear-off, or a re-roof for that matter... see how
important proper insurance is!
Q. How can
I be sure my contractor has insurance and won't cancel it during my job? |
A. A
business's insurance company issues certificates of insurance directly to the customers
and keeps a on file. That way, if a contractor cancels or fails to renew insurance, the
insurance company is to notify all certificate holders that the contractor is
no longer insured with that company. So, before allowing any contractor to work on your
property, ask him to have his insurance company send or fax you his certificate of
insurance, showing your name as the certificate holder. If the contractor is
unfamiliar with this process, he probably is inexperienced and doesn't have the proper
insurance or skill to do the job.
Q. Are
you the fastest roofers in town?
A. NO, and we
don't want to be. |
|
Glossary
Deck/Sheathing: The surface-usually
plywood or oriented-strand board (OSB)- to which roofing materials are applied.
Dormer: A small structure projecting from a sloped roof, usually with a window.
Drip Edge: an L-shaped strip (usually metal) installed along the edges of the roof
to allow water run-off to drip clear of the deck, eaves and siding.
Eave: The horizontal lower edge of a sloped roof.
Felt/Underlayment: A sheet of asphalt-saturated material (often called "tar
paper") used as a secondary layer of protection for the roof deck.
Fire Rating: The underwriters Laboratories (UL) system for classifying the
fire-resistance of various materials. Roofing materials are rated Class A, B, or C, with
Class A materials having the highest resistance to fire originating outside the structure.
Flashing: Pieces of metal used to prevent the seepage of water around any
intersection or projection in a roof, such as vent pipes, chimneys, valleys and the joints
at vertical walls.
Louvers: Slatted devices installed in the gable or soffit (the underside of the
eaves) to ventilate the space below the roof deck and equalize air temperature and
moisture.
Oriented-Strand Board/OSB: Roof deck panels (4ft. x 8ft.) made of narrow bits of
wood, laid down lengthwise and crosswise in layers, held together with a resin
"glue". Often used as a substitute for plywood sheets.
Penetrations: Vents, pipes, stacks, chimneys- anything that sticks up through the
roof deck.
Rafters: The supporting framing to which the roof deck is attached.
Rake: The inclined edge of a roof over a wall.
Ridge: The top edge of two intersecting sloping roof surfaces.
Sheathing: The boards or sheet materials which are fastened to the roof rafters to
cover the house.
Slope: Measured by rise in inches for each 12 inches of horizontal run. A roof with
a 4-in-12 slope rises 4 inches for every foot.
Square: The common measurement for roofs: 100 square feet (10' x 10').
Truss: The engineered components which have supplemented rafters in many newer
houses. They are designed for specific applications and cannot be cut or altered in any
way.
Valley: The angle formed at the intersection of two sloping roof surfaces.
Vapor Retarder: A material designed to restrict the passage of water vapor through
a roof or wall.
Things you should know:
SUN: Heat and ultraviolet rays cause roofing materials to deteriorate
over time. The deterioration can occur faster on the sides facing west or south.
RAIN: When water gets underneath the shingles, shakes or other roofing
materials, it can work its way to the deck and cause the roof structure to rot. And, the
extra moisture encourages mildew and rot elsewhere in the house, including walls,
ceilings, insulation and even the electrical system.
WIND: High winds can lift the edges of shingles (or other roofing
materials) and force water and debris underneath them. Very high winds can do extensive
damage.
SNOW AND ICE: Melting snow often refreezes at the roof's overhang (where
the surface is cooler), forming an ice dam and blocking proper drainage into the gutter.
Instead, the water backs up under the shingles and seeps into the interior. In the
early melt stages, gutters and downspouts can be the first to fill with ice and be damaged
beyond repair or torn off the house.
CONDENSATION: Condensation can result from the build-up of relatively
warm moist-laden air. Moisture in a poorly ventilated attic promotes decay of the
wood sheathing and rafters, possibly destroying the roof structure. The solution may be to
increase attic ventilation through the use of larger or additional vents, so that the
attic air temperature will be closer to the outside air temperature.
MOSS AND ALGAE: Moss can grow on wood shingles and shakes if they are
kept moist by poor sunlight conditions or bad drainage. Once it grows, moss holds even
more moisture to the roof surface, causing rot, and its roots actually work their way into
the wood. Algae also grow in damp, shaded areas on wood or asphalt shingle roofs. Besides
creating an ugly black-green stain, it can retain moisture, causing rot and deterioration.
Trees and bushes should be trimmed away from the house to eliminate damp, shaded
areas, and gutters should be kept clean to ensure good drainage.
TREES AND LEAVES: Tree branches touching the roof will scratch and gouge
the roof material as they are blown back and forth by the wind. Falling branches from
overhanging trees can damage or even puncture shingles and other roof materials.
Leaves on the roof surface can retain moisture and cause rot, and leaves in the gutters
block drainage.
MISSING OR TORN SHINGLES: The key to a roof's effectiveness is complete
protection. When shingles are missing or torn off, the roof structure and the
interior of the home are vulnerable to water damage and rot. The problem is likely to
spread - nearby shingles are easily ripped or blow away. Missing or torn shingles should
be replaced as soon as possible.
SHINGLE DETERIORATION: When shingles get old and worn out, they curl,
split, and lose their waterproofing effectiveness. And weakened shingles are easily
blown off, torn or lifted by wind gusts. The end result is structural rot and interior
damage. A deteriorated roof only gets worse with time and should be replaced as soon as
possible.
FLASHING DETERIORATION: Many apparent roof leaks are really flashing
leaks. Without good, tight flashings around chimneys, vents, skylights and wall/roof
junctions, water can sneak into the house and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation
and even the electrical system. Flashings should be checked as part of a twice-yearly roof
inspection and gutter cleaning.
Glossary
TOP
    
| |
|
